【CHOK 独家专访】我们专访了地球上最骚的纯爷们发型屋 Schorem

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Bertus

Rob a.k.a. Bertus

schorembarbier.nl

采访日期: 2015年7月28日

还记得前不久我们介绍过的那间只为纯爷们而开的发型屋 Schorem 吗?没错,就是那个满屋子花臂满背纹身的发型师,只做男士复古油头造型,还能帮你修胡子的骚店。ChokStick 专访了他们的创始人 Bertus,跟他瞎聊了一堆关于骚男发型的话题,还挖到了一些造型妙招。

去多了被嘈杂的音乐和各种产品推销搞坏了的国内发型屋,我们需要重新认识一下发型屋这个神圣的地方。我们先来看看这个骚大叔 Bertus 是怎么看待发型这个问题的。

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下次我去剪头发进门听到流行音乐我就不剪了。

视频:带你去看看地球上最传奇的纯爷们发型屋 Schorem

这是一个专门为男士而开的发型屋与胡子造型屋,专注复古发型和复古古法剃须,无论流行怎么变,Schorem 专注复古时尚从不手软,简直就是纯爷们的天堂。 Schorem 的四个当家造型师,本身就是复古界的翘楚,大胡子,油头,大花臂,八字胡,羊毛西装背心,绅士帽,立志要让每一个进店的男士都高潮!

先让我们粗粗地了解一下你吧!

Bertus: 嘿!我是 Rob 人称 Bertus,我跟我好基友 Leen 一起经营着这间很骚的发型屋 Schorem 。这个发型屋开始于 4 年半前,但我俩都剪了二十几年头发了,经过长时间的积累,我们觉得是时候开一个属于我们自己的发型屋,它必须要非常专业,够骚,很摇滚,而且很有我们自己的调调。

生活本来就是很随性很个性的,走自己的路,坚持自己的风格,说自己的台词。

Bertus

▲ Bertus,地球上最骚的纯爷们发型屋创始人之一

这哥们特别戴帽子

▲ 这哥们特别戴帽子,想知道为什么吗?

这就是为什么

▲ 这就是为什么


别废话,什么时候来中国开分店?

Bertus: 我要先说我很喜欢中国。但我们并没有任何打算去其他地方开店。发型屋本来就是一个非常交心的地方,每个来的人都要知道我们的名字。

我不知道 Schorem 最后会发展成啥样儿,我们也不去将我们的想法强加给别人,不去竖些无聊的旗帜,我们只是按照自己的喜好招揽一些跟我们一样有着同样审美和理念的员工,然后亲自去调教他们,他们的身上都会纹上店的 Logo ,我们不要做什么连锁店,我不希望我的顾客走进来,我还要花时间去跟他解释我是谁我干啥的。

▲ 我们店面经过一次扩张,搬到原来店铺马路对面去了,旧的的店面就用来做教室,给新手们练习。

▲ 我们店面经过一次扩张,搬到原来店铺马路对面去了,旧的的店面就用来做教室,给新手们练习。

▲ 我们不想放弃原来的旧店址,那里充满了我们血与泪的经历。

▲ 我们不想放弃原来的旧店址,那里充满了我们血与泪的经历。

▲ 客人们从五湖四海慕名而来,来感受我们这些怪咖的复古风,听起来像是无聊的功夫电影,哈哈。

▲ 客人们从五湖四海慕名而来,来感受我们这些怪咖的复古风,听起来像是无聊的功夫电影,哈哈。


老实说,你有没有剪坏过别人的发型?我要怎么指导我的发型师剪出我想要的发型?

Bertus: 亲爱的,当我还是个学生的时候我搞砸了无数个头好伐。我太特么好学,看到的都想试试,但是,这都是在地球人发明了 YouTube 和 Google 之前的事情了。

你跟你的发型师之间的默契非常重要,而这种默契需要长时间慢慢建立。很多时候,我甚至觉得,找一个让你觉得安心的发型师,并不完全是为了一个好看发型,而是为了享受一个宁静的片刻。我认为,用心地跟一个陌生人沟通,这样的艺术已经慢慢在这个社会上消逝,但恰恰这样的沟通的艺术是让这个社会变得更美好的根本。

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如果有个女人找你剪头发,你剪吗?

Bertus: 我会叫她去沙龙咯~ 我们都爱美女,我也喜欢美女的秀发,但是,Men Only 是我们的原则,这个原则更多是为了确保男人们能够有一个清静的地方独处,并且也是男人们才能理解的秘密场所。

试想一下你平时去一些店里,如果有个大波翘臀美女进来,男人们肯定立马分神,然后使尽各种招数去吸引她注意。

▲ 但如果在一个只有男人的环境里,谁特么还去管别人在干屌,专心做好自己的事情就好了。

▲ 但如果在一个只有男人的环境里,谁特么还去管别人在干屌,专心做好自己的事情就好了。

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来聊聊发型趋势吧,你有没有特别喜欢的男士发型?

Bertus: 我们从不关注趋势,但奇怪的是我们做了几年同样的发型结果我们倒成了潮流了!

我们很兴奋能看到经典的复古男士发型能够重回新时代,我们曾经也苦恼真正的绅士都快要绝种了。我很感恩复古油头重新燃骚,包括经典的绅士油头造型,和现代改良版的飞机头大背头,也有很多有想法的团队开始在研发各种好用的发油,也确实有好些新产品我觉得挺好用的。

▲ 我最爱的发型当然就是复古油头,我已经下定决心将我的一生用来剪出完美的油头。

▲ 我最爱的发型当然就是复古油头,我已经下定决心将我的一生用来剪出完美的油头。

▲ 但我发现这根本无法实现,因为油头之王 Elvis Aaron Presley 猫王已经不在了。(右手纹身:猫王)

▲ 但我发现这根本无法实现,因为油头之王 Elvis Aaron Presley 猫王已经不在了。(右手纹身:猫王)

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中国人很难留胡子,你有什么妙招?

Bertus: 一定要留,不要手贱,如果形状不好看,那就微微调整,不能剪,不要手贱,不要手贱,不要手贱,重要的事情说三遍。但是基因改变不了,大胡子的人想要干净的脸,白切鸡想要大胡子,都挺纠结的,最好的方法还是找个信任的师傅,让他定期给你修剪。

现在市面上也有很多很好的胡子产品,可以用来软化胡须,让胡须更有光泽,其中很多都有很好闻的古龙香,你值得拥有。

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我常去的理发店老是播些很土的歌,你在店里播什么音乐?

Bertus: 我们是绝对不会在店里听流行音乐的。我们听各种音乐,就是不听小苹果,我喜欢乐器的声音,就是真正有乐器演奏的音乐,不听那些垃圾流行乐。

我们都热爱摇滚,喜欢流淌在摇滚乐里的魔鬼内涵。店里也会播放乡村摇滚、朋克音乐、金属、爵士、硬核……我最喜欢的乐队有 Kings of Nuthin’、Demented are Go、Hatebreed、Social Distortion 等等。

The Kings of Nuthin

▲ The Kings of Nuthin


一个好的理发店的标准是什么?是什么激励你一直做下去的?

Bertus: 你如果有信心开一间理发店,一定要有做一辈子的决心,并且不断学习进化。很奇怪的,剪头发并不是什么高深科学,但却需要用一辈子去学习,但这也是它有趣的地方。一个真正的大师,在追求艺术境界的道路上会一直扮演一个学生的角色。

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你每天都干些啥?

Bertus: 起床,挠挠蛋,煮个咖啡,然后去检查我的胡子昨晚有没有长歪了。

我热爱我的工作,我喜欢在店里剪头发,我也喜欢旅行,我喜欢在老教室里东搞搞西搞搞,见见世界各地的理发师。

▲ 我喜欢跟我们的摄影师 Jelle 一起去拍照…… 每一周都很不一样的,我就想要让生活不一样。

▲ 我喜欢跟我们的摄影师 Jelle 一起去拍照…… 每一周都很不一样的,我就想要让生活不一样。

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最后,对于想做发型师的骚年你有什么建议?

Bertus: 理发是世界上最完美的工作,老子干了 26 年从来没有后悔过。这是一件非常特别的工作,能跟这个工作不期而遇我真特么觉得我是个幸运的混蛋。但是理发师不只是帮别人剪剪头发,真正合格的理发师要帮助他的客人去社交,理发店就是这样一个地方,一个被社会所需要的神圣地方,毕竟你的头发每天都在长。好的理发师要为顾客剪头发,而不是为了满足自己的偏好或者想法。其实发型师好跟不好,没什么可以作为标准的,只是看你跟你的顾客是否能愉快地相处,并且你是否能从中得到成就感。

10 年前谁会想到复古油头现在会这么火,不就都靠这些有追求的骚年们坚持做着这样的发型,就是不被什么流行什么趋势所左右,才让复古油头再一次占领这个时代。

▲ 什么事情只要坚持去做,做到极致,都会变成一件很屌的事情。

▲ 什么事情只要坚持去做,做到极致,都会变成一件很屌的事情。

▲ 都给我听好了,有自信的人不需要常常去改变自己的风格而适应潮流。

▲ 都给我听好了,有自信的人不需要常常去改变自己的风格而适应潮流。

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咱们也要有梦想

其实七哥一直梦想着,哪天等哥有钱了哥就在那条卖盗版碟的小巷子里开一个复古发型屋,你乱糟糟地来,我让你骚包包地走,然后你来听我的黑胶唱片,喝我给你泡的咖啡,我们有超屌的纹身师给你做大花臂,然后有大花臂的理发师给你剪头发,还有大油头的骚大叔给你修胡子,这才是骚年的未来。好吧,现在开始接受预约,兑现日期未知哈哈。

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Q1: Please tell us about yourself, your barbershop, where are you from, and the craziest thing you’ve done before?

Hey, my name’s Rob a.k.a. Bertus a.k.a. The Bloody Butcher (what’s in a name right) Me and my buddy Leen a.k.a. The Bearded Bastard started a small barbershop called Schorem Haarsnijder en Barbier four and a half years ago in the working class town of Rotterdam. We both have been in the hair business for more than 25 years years and we started that shop out of the passion for the history of barbering and the love for rock ‚n’ roll music and kustom kulture… Life’s been good man, skateboarding, going to gigs, walking the walk ‘n’ talking the talk…

Q2: Schorem Barbershop has a fantastic reputation around the world. Our readers including myself are really hoping you could set up a shop somewhere in China, have you ever planed to open up a shop anywhere in the world ? How about a barber school?

Well… As much as we would LOVE to to China we decided to not open anywhere else, we strongly believe that a barbershop is a very special place in society where “everybody knows your name”. Off course we had no idea that Schorem would grow into what it is today but we don’t want to sell out that ethos. We love the fact that we trained every employee personally, know their backgrounds and what moved them to become a barber, these guys have the logo of the shop tattooed man, we would never have chain where we would have to walk into a shop and introduce ourselves, that’s just not why we started the shop.  

We do have an academy called “The Old School” that we opened in the “old” shop where we got started before we had to move to a bigger one on the other side of the street. We didn’t want to lose that place because for us it was Holy Ground, the walls and floor soaked with blood, sweat ‘n’ tears hahaha… We have people from all over the world travelling to Rotterdam to learn a bit more about The Ancient Way Of The Scumbag (we love how that sounds like a cheap Kung Fu movie haha)

Q3: Every time I changed a new barber, I will keep my fingers crossed that he can do it right. Have you ever messed up someone’s haircut in your career?  Any advice for a new comer how to communicate with her/his barber?

Oh man, I fucked up so many haircuts when I was still in school, I was VERY eager to learn and I was trying out everything I saw… Those were the days before YouTube and goggle you know… My mates would bring in record sleeves and asked me for the Pompadour their favourite singer was sport in’ or show me skate videos pointing our cuts of their favourite riders, this was the time of skate movies like Ban This and Hokus Pokus, great videos but not the best haircuts hahaha… I would just try everything, I was „the guy that cuts hair” so I was at home trying to cut mohawks and quiffs but hiphop was becoming bigger as well so I was trying flattops and designs as well… Great times and the cool thing is that the circle is round, we ended up doing what was the reason to start barbering in the first place. If you to barber, take a photo, or better, a few photos. Want a classic cut? The barber should know the names of the cuts you’re showing, if not, you’re definitely in the wrong place.

Your relationship with your barber is really important, it’s a band of trust build over the years. It’s really not so much about the haircut in the first place, it’s about escaping reality for a moment I guess, reinventing the lost art of having a conversation with a total stranger, these things are actually the cornerstone of society and were slowly being forgotten…

Q4: I know Schorem is a men-only barbershop, what if a girl walk in asking for a men’s haircut, what are you gonna do?

Tell her to go to salon… We love girls and to be honest I LOVE a good haircut on a lady but for us that whole „men-only” rule is more to secure that special environment only guys understand… Things just change when a foxy madame walks in, every guy wants to be remembered as „That special one” and when it’s just guys, nobody really gives a fuck because you’re all there for the same thing right… No worries about losing your cool in the barbershop.

Any interesting trends in men’s grooming over the last several years? What is your favorite hairstyle for man?

We don’t really care about trends, we find it actually surprising that we became „trendy” in the first place because we have been doing this stuff for so long. We think it’s a really good thing the classic man’s haircut and grooming is back because well, we think men were a bit lost.

We love the fact that pomade is back in such a sting manner, both the old school oil based and the more of a new school water based pomades… Lot’s of small businesses and entrepreneurs are brewing great pomades and I find that really exciting. We have our own brand of pomade called REUZEL which means lard and is a wink to the days pomades were actually made out of animal fat (off course it’s a wink, our pomades are tested on beasts, not animals…) My absolute favourite hairstyle for men is the pompadour… I’ve dedicated my life to cutting the perfect pomp which sadly will never happen because Mr. Elvis Aaron Presley is not with us anymore…

Q6: I know many people like me trying hard to grow out beards. Any advice for growing and maintaining a good-looking beard?

Keep trimming it till grows full. Sadly there’s not much you can do about your inplant… Either you have a thick beard or you don’t. There are lots and lots of really nice product on the market to soften the whiskers, most of them having great fragrances…

Q7: Here in China people like playing Disco/Pop music in barbershop as background music, how about in Rotterdam? Do you often play music in your barbershop? What is your favorite song/band?

We play all kinds of music in our shop but all of it is played on real instruments, no dico or pop for the Scumbags. We love rock ‚n’ roll in all it’s devilish forms… Rockabilly, psychobilly, bluegrass, punk, punkrock, metal, jazz, country, stoner, hardcore… You catch my drift… I love bands like Kings of Nuthin’, Demented are Go, Hatebreed, Social Distortion.

Q8: To become a good barber, what’s the first thing to learn? What are your favorite quotes that motivate you all the time?

You gotta open up and be willing to learn the rest of your life… It’s weird, barbering is no rocket science but it will take a lifetime to master the craft and that’s what keeps it so darn interesting… „A true master is he who mastered the art of always being a student”

Q9: What is your typical day look like?

Wake up, scratch my balls, make coffee and check the genda I guess… I love my job, I love to cut hair in the shop, I love travelling, I love working in The Old School teaching and meeting barbers from all over the world, I love doing photoshoots with Jelle, our photographer… Every week is different and that’s exactly how I want things to be…

Q10:  What advice would you give to anyone thinking of becoming a barber, or just looking for a great haircut?

Barbering is the best job in the world, I picked up my clippers 26 years ago and never looked back… I think that’s a very special thing and that I’m a lucky bastard to have found that job… Barbering is never just about the haircut, a barber takes care of the people and his community, the barbershop is a place that is needed in society and will always survive because the hair keeps growing, cut for your patrons ego, not your own, there’s nothing to prove, it’s just you and your patron having a good time and taking pride in your work…

I hope this will help, thank you so much for featuring us, I will attach a file with some old interviews with extra information.

Images © Schorembarbier

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